Apartment and Safari

After a maddening couple weeks of house/apartment/townhouse hunting we finally found a place I think we'll call home for our time in Nairobi. Nairobi appears to be in a bit of a housing bubble so rental prices are fairly high.  It was very tough to find something with good security and relatively modern furnishings in our price range.  I must have looked at 20 to 25 different places. The winner is a 3 bedroom apartment in a complex of three buildings.  What is important is that there's a manicured garden surrounding the buildings.  All of the other apartments we saw did not have any green space - they were just surrounded by parking lots.  It seems a shame to be in such a beautiful country and not have some of that in your daily life (especially with two rambunctious kids who are used to being outside).  We also have a very nice swimming pool.  The other important criteria is that this complex is somewhat equidistant from Rhonda's work and the kids' schools.  A nice added bonus is that the apartment came furnished - the vast majority of other places we saw were not.  That is a big deal here since unfurnished means you don't even get a washing machine, fridge, or oven.  It was a big relief to not have to shop and lay out the cash for those appliances and for beds, dishes, pot pans, sofas, and every conceivable little thing.  There is even a big, huge flat panel TV - bigger than anything we had back home (sure would be nice to watch a football game on it but as I am writing this the Jets are losing 30 to 9 so maybe its better I don't!).  Of course there's a large negative, seems we are right over the water pump and there is an incessant high-pitched noise that is driving Rhonda and I half mad.  I have spoken with the caretaker but something tells me we'll have to get used to it or move.  We'll see.

Last week we got out of Nairobi for the first time.  The kids had off from school on alternate weeks so we took an extra day and made a long weekend.  Our first stop was a gorgeous lodge at the base of Mount Longonot, about an hour and half outside of Nairobi.  After a couple of wrong turns and getting stuck in deep sand on the track up to the lodge we were greeted like royalty with cold refreshments once we arrived.  Later in the afternoon the whole family went for a horseback ride and then, while the staff watched over Matthew and Ruby, Rhonda and I went for a longer ride with galloping zebras and gazelles - it was amazing.  We also loved the three yummy meals they served and very comfortable cottage we stayed in that looked out over to Lake Naivasha.

For Day #2 we drove up to Lake Nakuru.  This was going to be our first real safari experience as a family (Rhonda had been to the Mara last year) so we were very excited.  Right away, upon entering the park, the monkeys and baboons greeted us, even before we paid the entrance fee.  Now for an aside: one of the reasons we have not done too much yet as sightseers in Kenya is that the fees for the parks are exorbitant.  For instance we paid $80 per adult to enter ($40 for the kids).  Once we get our resident's visa the cost will be about 10% of that.  But we had already been in Kenya for two months so we were itching to see big game!  It didn't take long, we drove about 40 minutes or so and saw rhinos, buffaloes, antelopes, and even a glimpse of a lion. For this evening we stayed at the very disappointing, run-down Wildlife Club of Kenya Guesthouse in the park, shame on Lonely Planet for listing this place as a top pick - no hot showers, smelly fridge, and moldy kitchenware!  It was opposite of the night before, but at least there were zebra grazing right beside the accommodations.  No matter how bad this place was, the park made up for it.  Within 10 minutes of leaving the guesthouse and getting out on safari again we were surrounded by wildlife - first the buffaloes and then whole troops of baboons which were so fascinating to watch.
Our ultimate goal was to get back to where we saw the lions hanging out the day before.  And wow when we got back there, we got an eyeful.  It was awe-inspiring to see so many, 12 in all. 
After a quick visit to a waterfall in the south end of the park we passed back through the savanna with more zebras, warthogs and beautiful giraffes. 

 
All the more amazing is that all this fauna lives in this relatively small park which is right outside the fourth biggest city in Kenya. After a quick lunch of nyama choma (finally) we headed back to Nairobi.  The drive to and back from these two lakes was fascinating.  It was our first time driving outside of Nairobi and it was interesting to see life in the countryside. Lots of stalls selling everything from vegetables to woven baskets.  I was particularly looking forward to seeing the Rift Valley escarpment.  About 30 to 40 minutes after leaving Nairobi the road takes you past a viewpoint where the entire valley spreads out beneath you and the view must be for dozens of miles with mountains and lakes in the distance.  Sure was glad Rhonda was driving so I could soak it up.

 

This past weekend was more mellow.  Finally cleaned and organized the apartment a bit since we moved in. Shopped for some Halloween costumes for the kids - Matthew is very excited to be a cheetah and Ruby will be a very cute Supergirl. 

The drama continues with getting Ruby to school, I think I wrote earlier how the bus to pick her up came much too early (6:40am), so we found a nice family who lived very close to our old apartment who gave her a ride.  But now that we moved, it was getting very hectic to bring her back to that family.  Luckily we found another nice German School parent who lives fairly close to our new apartment.  So we visited that family this morning to introduce ourselves and see if we could make it work. 

 

During our conversations he mentioned a unique place to buy rugs, since that was going to be our next purchase and in the afternoon we headed over there.  Fascinating place.  All the rugs are made on site and you can even order any design, color, or size you want and weavers will make it for you.  So many options may not be a good thing though - we couldn't make a decision and left without buying anything - if anyone wants to chime in on opinions (design/color)- send Rhonda a note! 

dyed wool hanging to dry

caves, waterfalls, downtown, Yom Kipper and a very cool map

Got out to some green this past weekend as we went for a hike/walk in the forest.  Was only about a 20 minute drive from our apartment.  It felt very safe and comfortable.  There were guards patrolling it and lots of families walking about.  We spent a lot more time there then we expected since it was so nice.  Walked through some caves and enjoyed a waterfall.

During the week, as both of the kids are now in school, I have been searching high and low for housing.  On Tuesday I convinced our real estate agent to show me the ropes on how to navigate the city via matatu as we had to go to a different neighborhood and I was sick of paying for taxis.  Very cool experience - just have to get up the gumption to do it on my own next time!  Gulp.  Also got a chance to finally walk around downtown Nairobi, which was also a welcome change of pace from our local neighborhood.  Not that there is anything wrong with Westlands -- just need to change it up every now and then....  One part of downtown has a very hectic, energizing, and vibrant feel and the other section felt quite modern and business-like.  The dichotomy of the two sections reminded me of New York, Wall Street and Midtown playing the part of the modern area and LES / East Village the more happening 'hood....

On Wednesday we went to the Nairobi Synagogue.  The setting and building itself are amazing.  It was built 100 years ago and the city has grown up right around it.  The service was mostly in Hebrew but everyone is so welcoming.  It's an awesome feeling to be part of a community that has held forth for so long in such a seemingly off the beaten track locale for Jews. (but maybe not, as my grandmother has a cousin who lived in Nairobi during the 40/50's)  During Rosh Hashanah a couple weeks ago they invited me up to open the Ark - after I got over my initial hesitation/nervousness I deeply appreciated the honor.

As a final note, here is a map showing our footprint in Nairobi...

Whirlwind!

That's what it has been over the past couple weeks since leaving the US and coming here -- in a good way; so many new experiences and things to learn - not a dull minute!

I haven't posted since before we left, so I have to acknowledge the unbelievable send-off we received from our friends in Nyack. What a powerful and strong evening it was - it will be in our memory forever. Thanks so much to Tom and Lisa for organizing and for all who made it so special.  When we come back in a year or two or three, we hope we can reciprocate. 

That was the Friday night before we left.  The next 48 hours were a blur, as so many things were going through our minds.  We did get to enjoy Stu's performance and last minute goodbyes to Nana and Papa and Oma and Opa.  One of the most memorable things was packing a suitcase full of just random toys... My dad must have thought we lost it (mentally) ... Most of the things in there were just small random objects, but the kids have such an imagination that I am pretty sure they have used every single knick knack we brought (highlighter pens as hockey sticks, etc).

playing birthday party pinata with
all the random objects we brought

Thanks to Oma and Opa for bringing us all the way to JFK.  We had to caravan in two cars since we had so many suitcases!  Flight was great - it was quite memorable to fly over the Alps, down the Adriatic just west of Greece, and then many hours over the vast brown expanse of the Sahara.  Finally, right before dark, we spotted the Nile and I think Khartoum.  Then it got dark, and about an hour later at 8pm local time we landed.  We collected our luggage and visas and got scooped up by drivers from Rhonda's work and whisked to our temporary apartment here in Nairobi.

We like our temporary home.  It's fairly basic, but we are all comfortable.  The maid comes every day to clean (I keep telling Rhonda - you don't have to do the dishes!).  We get to the pool most days, and Matthew has become an unbelievable swimmer.  Despite the pool water being maybe 60 degrees, he just jumps right in!

Our first week was fairly straight forward. We laid low the first day - just venturing to the local shopping center to get some key supplies.  The rest of the week we visited some schools and made lots of local taxi drivers happy with our frequent trips all around.   As mentioned on an earlier post, we had Shabbat dinner that first Friday with an American family who has made us feel very welcome.  Then Saturday night we went to a get-together with some of Rhonda's work colleagues, which was also great to make us feel even more welcome.  Sunday we got to feed monkeys in a local park - the kids loved it and we even saw a mommy monkey carrying a baby monkey.  Thanks to Rhonda's Director for showing us that. 

mommy and baby

 

The next Monday, Sept 3rd, Rhonda started work and the kids and I began our ceaseless search for schools and housing.  At this point, I feel like an expert in both the housing supply in Westlands (our neighborhood in Nairobi) and pre-k and elementary schools for expat kids.  Most interestingly for housing, there is no central database for what's available - no real Craigslist.  There are a couple of sites, but nothing has a comprehensive list. Some of the most promising places we have seen have come from just calling "To Let" signs and looking at postings on bulletin boards in the shopping centers (talk about pre-internet - this is pre-newspaper!).  Then for schools, we found a couple of nice possibilities for Ruby that we hadn't even discovered during web searches - just from networking.  It turns out Ruby is going to the German School, which we identified back in the states, but the lesson learned is that nothing compares with being on the ground and just searching things out physically.

playing -- replicating Nairobi's traffic

It’s been a great bonding experience with the kids for a couple of weeks.  Naturally there were lots of complaints about seeing "another apartment", but for the most part we’ve been a tightly functioning team, always leaving a bit time for the pool, football / baseball practice in the complex's parking lot, and free play in the apartment.  This phase is coming to an end, however.



first day of school

Ruby started school on Tuesday and is even taking the bus! (thanks to Mr. Matthew for the great videography!)   God bless her - this morning was tough for her, crying desperately when getting on the bus because she didn't want to leave mommy, but later she still said she likes it.  What a trooper that little girl!  How many other American 4 year olds are riding the bus - let alone through Nairobi! (I should mention it’s not like an typical 30 seat American yellow school bus, it is actually a much smaller scale bus with a dedicated driver AND a second grown-up to help and watch over the kids.)

On Monday, Matthew will start the local American school.  He CAN NOT WAIT!  Got the call yesterday that it is a go, and he didn't understand why he couldn't start today!

crossing the highway

Yesterday and today, he and I really started to explore our local area.  Of course, at first we were kind of nervous to go out and about with all the security issues we hear about, but, as we expected, gradually you acclimate.  Even in one of the guide books it says mzungu aren't out walkin' the streets. BS– they are out there in force.  So, with confidence, we started to pound the pavement (I use that term loosely), and we ventured forth from the apartment, across the huge highway that separates us from the main shopping area and basically tried to be with the people.  Matthew couldn't understand why we weren't taking taxis anymore, but I think he really started to dig all the crazy sights, smells, and characters.  It's not that we saw anything in particular, we just were making our way to the market, post office, real estate posting, etc., but it is great to feel a part of the rhythm of the city.  Next we need to figure out the matatus, so we can venture further afield!

That might have to wait though -- the other big news this week is that Rhonda got access to a car (actually a totally tank size pick-up truck that could swallow our old Subaru in one bite).  She was amazing on the first day she got the vehicle, darting in and out of traffic to get us to a cub scout meeting... remember the driving is on the other side of the road and it is a stick shift, so since the driver’s side is on the other side she also had to shift with her left hand... Safari here we come!

Ruby and Matthew’s Note about Nairobi

Acacia Tree

I like Kenya and I really want to go to ISK, the American School in Kenya.  I may go to Braeburn Garden, the British school.  I like the flat trees, the Acacia trees.  Mommy likes the Jacaranda trees (Matthew). 



I liked where we had Shabbat last week.  I loved that there were kids, and I played with them.  I liked Jacob, the older of the children (Matthew).  And, I liked Layla (Ruby).  I played basketball with Jacob (Matthew), and they had a trampoline (Ruby).  They had a soccer field in their backyard.  Jacob said living in Nairobi is good.  We were going to play soccer, but we forgot and then when we remembered again it was dark outside.  In the darkness there are snakes, but they can’t eat us (Matthew).

Feeding Monkeys, City Park

We have so much toys, and we have a playroom in our apartment.  There’s one bed in the playroom. We also could play "Restaurant” (Ruby).  I’m the waiter (Matthew).  We play that game with all our animals.  They are the customers (Ruby).

We have a balcony (Matthew).  We have a table on our balcony (Ruby).  We are on the 3^rd floor. The apartment building goes up to the 4^th floor (Matthew).  I like that we have so many things while we’re sleeping to protect us.  Next to the first gate there’s a store where you can buy water bottles (Ruby).  There is a metal gate that’s green, and no one can get through unless the security guards let them in (Matthew).  We have a blanket on our couch, and it is yellow, green and orange (Ruby).

We have a pool near our apartment, and it’s not heated.  Usually I just slip right in, and I start swimming.  Daddy just jumps in, and it makes a big splash.  I can only stand where the wall is, the shallow end.  Usually I swim out of the shallow end to swim where I can’t stand (Matthew).  

Sheldrick Trust Elephant Orphanage

One day we went to see the elephants, but we missed the part of the cute little baby ones at the elephant orphanage.  When we first came, we saw only one little baby elephant.  But then we saw a group of teen-ager elephants (Matthew).  An elephant squirted mud on my arm and my leg (Ruby). 

Giraffe Manor

Next we visited giraffes.  I could give the giraffe the food, and he can lick it off my finger, but I didn’t want to.  He had a black tongue.  Then, there appeared a warthog (Matthew). 



I saw a monkey that stealed a bag of peanuts from Robin. It was funny (Ruby).  We saw so much monkeys I could not even count them.  Like Ruby said, one monkey stole a bag of peanuts from Robin (Matthew).  A monkey was sitting on my sandal (Ruby).  There is like thousands of monkeys in Africa.  I fed the monkeys, and one took a peanut right off my hand.  His hands felt like people’s hands, but they were a lot smaller (Matthew).  A monkey got a mango from a market that was close to the park where all the monkeys were (Ruby).

We have a lot of drivers, and I’ll tell you their names: Wilson, Julius and Steve. They are nice. I like Steve the best because he’s friendly to me and he knows my name better (Matthew).

Love,

Matthew and Ruby

 

 

Africa Afterall

We made it. We've been in Nairobi for just over 24 hours now, and somehow the world didn't self-destruct. It's always amazed me that you can be sitting in one reality for so long and it's so real, like nothing else exists. Then, you just take one small bend in the road, step off a plane, and your reality is enormously different; The slightly different sensation of the air to your nose that instantly tells you you're somewhere else, the sound of the rugged vans and SUVs honking in the chaotic airport parking lot, the pedestrians walking on the side of the highway while modern commercial buildings light up the night, the beautiful flowering trees set against the brown dirt roads, the random woman walking with a bundle on her head. 

And yet, what's the same is just as interesting. Being in a modern city even for just a short time, we've found elements that are familiar and many comforts of home.  Nairobi's street driving is much less chaotic than I'd imagined, having spent time in Delhi, Kathmandu, etc. (albeit years ago, so maybe they're not so chaotic now either).  The fact that everyone speaks English makes everything much easier for us, too - once in a while when we've been confused about something, I remember - "Ah!  We can ask someone!", which wasn't always true even on our most recent visit to France.  And, the apartment my work colleagues found for us is comfortable and pleasant.  The sheets are soft and we've found the right nook for the silver candle holder we'll use on friday nights.

What's most the same is our two beautiful children who pay attention to what's really important - how delicious the mango juice is - that the little basketball hoop from home can be put up on our apartment door low enough for Matthew to "slam dunk" - that the new Dora toothbrush is much better than the perfectly acceptable one Ruby had had before.  They've been amazingly trusting of our decision to do this, despite Matthew's initial upset.  Over the past 24 hours, they've been incredible sports and surprisingly open to their new surroundings.

I've found myself determined as ever to keep a positive attitude for their sake, and it's making all the difference. I'm honest. At bedtime tonight, when Matthew asked whether the doors were locked so that a "bad guy" doesn't come in (something he does at home, too) - I didn't sugar coat anything or say "it's not going to happen, silly".  But, I did speak from the same place of realistic confidence that other expats in Nairobi have done for me.  I explained the many, many things in place we have to protect us:  the wall around our apartment building, the gate that noone can get through unless the security guard lets them in, the fact that we're on the 3rd floor, the regular lock, the deadbolt, the locked metal gate behind THAT, the special crystal stones we brought with us that our dear friends infused with their love and protection, the monkey and cheetah that the same dear friends gave as reminders of their "power animals" (which the kids carry around and hug constantly), and on and on like that.
 
We talked about how important it is to walk in the world like a powerful, wise warrior - that people sense that in you, and that helps, too.  Back home, I wouldn't have had this conversation, but it seemed right and natural to also explain that "most bad guys want money."  I told him that if I were to ever come across a bad guy, I'd give him my money or my cell phone or my camera or even my car, and he'd most likely go away.  And, that'd be ok because what matters is the people we love, not what we have.  I said it like I meant it, and he wasn't scared - I think it helped him feel comforted actually since he drifted off to sleep peacefully.  And, what's even more amazing is that I DID mean it.

Just a week ago, I got a glimpse into how important it would be for me to focus on being aware and confident, rather than fearful while in Nairobi, but I couldn't quite feel it.  That was before our dear friends held a "protection circle" for our family the friday night before we left - filled with not just wishes for a safe journey and adventure, but affirmations about who we are as people like we have never before experienced and wise reminders about where real protection comes from.  For me, it was an event that will rank up there with just a handful of days that held that kind of meaning, love and power.  Of course, there's also the fact that real life can be much less scarey than an imagination focused on so many unknowns.

There are still many unknowns, but we are taking one step at a time.  My colleagues from my soon-to-be office here have been extraordinarily helpful and welcoming, too. We really did get the royal treatment coming off the plane. The Director, who I've known over the past year (from my most recent position with the same organization), is smart and kind.  She helped us navigate disembarking the plane, immigration, luggage, transport - even holding Matthew's hand when ours were full.  If her schedule allows, she's offerred to take us to the park on sunday to feed bananas to the monkeys.  Amazing.

One step at a time.  Next step is bed for me with a little Melatonin thrown in for jet lag.  I'm hoping to remain patient as we learn the levels and levels of learning in store for us.  We are in Africa afterall.

Goodbyes and Affirmations!

Yup - that is what the past week has been.  Work goodbyes, friend goodbyes, family goodbyes.  Last week we ventured down to Lakewood to say goodbye my 96 year old Grandma (Oma).  It was tough - she is 100% convinced that there is a 100% chance she won't see us again.   You can imagine how intense the actual goodbye was... Somewhat of a coincidence is that Oma's only living relative besides us actually spent 8 years in Kenya after escaping Germany before WWII.  Later this week Oma told her that her great-grandchildren would be moving there --- the relative's response was that it was a beautiful country and that people should visit us.  Hopefully those positive words eased Oma's heart just a little bit.

Also last week were goodbyes at work - of course, at least for the time being, I'll still being 'seeing' everyone on IM and email as I've got a full list of work projects to keep me busy.  What was especially nice were the random thoughts about what a great experience this will be.  I am really thriving on these comments as, honestly, nervousness, worry, and concern have been quite prevelant.    Nervousness about finding the right schools for the kids, worries about seemingly mundane matters like Nairobi traffic -- yeah the country might be beautiful, but if we can't get around to see it (scroll to fifth paragraph)-- what's the point!  and concern about personal and family safety -- I won't go into that too much since its pretty much everything you imagine.  However, hearing lots of comments about what a unique opportunity this will be helps to validate our decision to go.

One fun thing among all the packing / organzing / paperwork / appointment etc was going to the Jet Giant game with Matthew and my dad (Matthew's Opa).  Attending the Jet Giant game with my Dad was a bit of a family tradition going back to when it was played in the 70's at Yankee Stadium... now two stadiums later here we were with Matthew....

visit?

in case people are starting to think about visiting us....

found this on-line...

The best of both worlds?

Some say that March offers the best of both worlds, making this the best season for an African safari. Intermittent rains start during this month. Game viewing is excellent over short new grass of the plains. Spring-like conditions are moderated by cool nights and the average daily high temperature is 86 degrees Fahrenheit.

http://www.kenya-advisor.com/best-season-for-an-african-safari.html